Does Santa Fly This Far South?

I have not lived in FL for many years, but I can always remember the intense summer heat- and it was pretty much summer all year long. People flock to the beach in an effort to brown their skin and cool off in the water. But you cannot escape the heat- as you lie on the hot sand, sweat oozing from every pour in you body, wishing of nothing more than ice cold water to melt the feelings away- if even just for a moment. So you go into the ocean- hoping to cool down a bit- but all you have is a warm and unrefreshing, hot bath that coats you in salt and sucks all of the moisture out of your skin. It is why I moved from FL. I never enjoyed the heat.

It is finally summer in Argentina- and Xmas is just around the corner. However, it's just not the same without snowmen, snow, skiing, and friends and family huddled around a fire place. Take away a place that feels like home, the people you love, Christmas trees and Christmas decorations, Christmas shopping, Christmas dinner, etc..... It really does not feel like Christmas at all. It is sweltering hot here too and abnormally humid- as though you could swim through the air. We made this even better by driving 1200 km in Jorjito. Jorjito does'nt have AC- and even better, you cannot turn off the heat. So- 90+ degrees with the heat blasting for a solid 14 hour drive..... well, you get the picture. Needless to say, Jorjito will not be used for a road trip again.

We miss our friends and family tremendously and are both ready to hop on an airplane. But still- there is a strange captivating charm about all of Argentina- even in the moments when life is hard and you're homesick- there is something that draws you in, making the thought of leaving just as sad and terrifying as the thought of staying. So, we will stay for a bit more- undecided of what is next to come- perhaps moving Xmas to July, when it feels like a proper time to be festive here. We love you all.... Have a very merry Christmas.

Move Over Peter Pan.....

One of my favorite things about traveling is meeting other travelers and hearing about their adventures.

We met a woman yesterday. She was sitting alone in a cafe that Greg, Jeff, and I were in. She was eating a dessert that was shaped like a penguin- and we were wondering what it was filled with. As she bit off the head of the penguin, we all leaned over to try to get a glimpse of the mysterious dessert- thinking it might be filled with dulce de leche.... Her face looked pained as she took the bite, and she noticed the three of us staring at her. We had too many beers to remember the social rule of not staring- and we could not turn away as we wanted to know what the penguin was filled with.

Unable to see, we finally asked her- in Spanish- what was inside of the penguin. She looked confused- because she was British and only spoke English..... always funny in a foreign country- deciding which language to use. She was a bit upset at biting the head off the penguin shaped dessert- explaining the look on her face prior.

So we invited her to join us- and she happily did. We spoke for almost two hours about her travels and learned more about her story. She is about to turn 60. She had a brain tumor about five years ago, and she recovered. Ever since, she leaves her husband at home, packs up her back pack, and spends October- December traveling. She was about to embark on an adventure to Antarctica, which is why she was down in Ushuaia. She abandoned the thought of saving money a few years ago- now anxious to spend it, as she realized that we never know when our last day will arrive. She said she worked so many long days for so many years- and she was only now really beginning to live her life. Her husband was not up for traveling out of a back pack and staying in hostels- so she said it is better to leave him. Her kids- my and Greg's age- think she has gone off the deep end.

I loved this woman for so many reasons.... her sense of adventure, her idea of what a woman her age can and cannot do, her new found appreciation for the beauty of life in all forms. But most of all, while Greg and I have had our doubts about our decision to come down here- as all of our friends are getting married, having children, moving up in their careers, etc...- it reaffirmed our decision and our beliefs about "what we want to do when we grow up". There is an amazing world to see, and you just cannot see it in 2 week vacations once a year. So while at times we have visions of settling down, I am not sure either one of us will end up settled in the traditional way. We are searching for alternatives- and things are looking good... we are meeting the right people at the right time to make our vision of life come true. We are holding onto the idea of Never Never Land- where you stay young and can do and get whatever you put your mind to. While many people laugh and tell us we are crazy...... I think we are just taking the road less traveled.
and that will make all the difference......

Road Trip.... Take a Prius!

As we make the trek down to the end of the world..... we find out some interesting facts about Argentina.

Paved roads are a luxury. One that people in the US take for granted.

A gas station does not always have gas.

Every city ,however, has a casino. Perhaps it's to keep you occupied while you wait for the gas station to get gas.

There are often stretches of 300+ km without gas stations.

This makes me worry- because the gas station does not always have gas.

There are more guanacas (they look like llamas) than cars on the roads that have no gas. A tourist office will tell you to pack blankets in case you have problems.... like running out of gas.

We, luckily, did not run out of gas (close, but not quite).......

The 'A' Factor

Greg and I have been "factored" several times every single week. We thought we had bad luck- and then we realized that everyone gets factored. This makes me happy and sad all at the same time.... perhaps there are no travel gods.....

What exactly is getting factored? Well- it is when something goes wrong- even though the chance of something going wrong is incredibly slim. It is when a trip to the grocery store half a block away to pick up milk takes 4 hours. It is when all of your friends that come to visit you have to go to the hospital the day they arrive due to some strange affliction. (Most recently this was Kiley- who came from Iguazu falls to meet up in Bariloche. He was bitten by a mosquito that made his leg and foot swell up and turn blue. Apparently the little mosquito lays worm eggs when it bites you- only to be cured by staying off your feet, taking antibiotics, and not drinking). It's when there are no speed limits on the highways for your road trip... but the roads are too unmaintained to go more than 60.

We recently were responsible for factoring ourselves. Greg and I have overstayed our 90 day visa by several months. The consequence is paying 300 pesos upon exiting the country. Well- we decided to take a trip to Ushuaia- where you cross into Chile briefly before getting back into Argentina. We had our money. We were ready to pay and get on with it as we approached border patrol. It was a Sunday..... and also a holiday. This should not be a huge problem.....

We go through border patrol- and they look at our passports and start laughing. Never a great sign....they tell us we have overstayed our welcome and we need to either pay a fine or fly to Ushuaia (since we would not be leaving the country if we flew). We considered flying- but we had a problem. We had a rental car... and another person who was not on the papers for the car, as you are only allowed to have two people on the papers and Greg and I are driving back from Ushuaia alone. So- we wanted to pay the fine. Well, the fine has to be paid in a town 75 km from the border at a government office. The government office is only open from 8-12 M-F...and it was Sunday.

So we stayed the night in a dingy oil and wool town. Not exactly a site to see....

We wake up at 7, pack up, and go to the immigration office. We wait for 20 min., and we get the paper we need after another five. This was just way too easy. There was just one catch.... the fine needed to be paid at the "Banco de la Nacion". It is around the corner and opens at 9 am. Then we need to bring back a receipt to this office and they will give us a special paper to cross the border. It's 8:40.... we have 20 min until the bank opens.... we might actually get out sooner than later!

We arrive at the bank 2 min. later and my jaw drops to the floor.... there is a line of about 500 people going around the building. Popular place apparently. We have until 12 to get back to the office or we will be stuck for yet another day in the fabulous Rio Gallegos.

An hour and a half later, I have moved forward less than 10 feet. I fear that this will be an all day event..... and inside the bank, the line looks like Disney World. I tell Greg to see if we can find a person we can pay and then get out of here....

And he does! He walked into the bank, told a guy we had a flight to catch and we were going to miss it if we could not pay the fine now, and moments later a very nice Argentine came over ranting about how the country was a "quilombo" (cluster fuck). He took our money- stamped and signed a paper- and sent us on our way....

BTW- this bank is where the entire city has to pay for anything government related. There are two windows to help people- and they each get a ten minute break every hour in order to have coffee and mate. Efficiency at its best :)

"I Can See Clearly Now"

I have realized that I am not a city girl. I tried to be- and I was for almost 6 mo.- but I have now wiped myself clean of the slime left behind by the buses and filth of Buenos Aires. I love Buenos Aires- it is truly an amazing city. However, it is the last place any person should visit on a trip to Argentina.

In the past few weeks, I have seen lakes the size of Texas spitting on the mountains they lie in front of. I have seen glowing glaciers the size of Buenos Aires holding contests with the sky of who could be the brightest blue. I have been temporarily deafened by their thunderous crash as fragments plummet hundreds of feet into the lake below, silencing crowds of people and sending their jaws dropping to the ground. . I have been sprayed by "Right" whales and their young as they curiously try to get a glimpse of the boat of people trying to get a glimpse of them. I have waddled next to penguins and watched the mothers feed their newborn young.

These stories go on.... I am shocked and amazed by what I have seen- and I had no idea Argentina held so many treasures. To come to Argentina and not see the wonders it holds is a tragedy. And... there is still more to come :)

So- while the city of Buenos Aires has a life of its own- a heart beat, veins, and people pumping through it at an incredible pace- I think I have found I much enjoy the life outside of the city. The soot and grime fogs up your eyes- and you think you can see clearly- but alas, after leaving the city for some time- I have found my glasses and have truly realized what an amazing country I am living in.